![]() Process for the preparation of dermatological and cosmetic preparations with pronounced lamellar str
专利摘要:
Process for the preparation of cosmetic or pharmaceutical products for topical use consisting of a mixture of phosphatidylcholine (preferably hydrogenated), vegetable oils and / or fats and / or waxes, water and / or hydrous plant extracts, mono- or polysaccharides, which is mixed with microorganisms , whereby the initially droplet-shaped pre-emulsion converts over a period of several days into a pronounced lamellar membrane structure with skin-physiological properties. 公开号:CH711598A2 申请号:CH01505/15 申请日:2015-10-16 公开日:2017-04-28 发明作者:Kuhs Bernd 申请人:Swiss Cream Cosmetics Scc Gmbh; IPC主号:
专利说明:
Description of the Related Art As early as 1995, the inventor and applicant developed and marketed products called DMS (Derma Membrane Structure), which were prepared on the basis of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, medium chain triglycerides, cosmetic actives and high pressure homogenization. These cosmetic products were able to do without conventional emulsifiers altogether. The lipophilic and hydrophilic components of the cream also exhibited lamellar structures for the first time, similar to those of the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum. The lamellar structures conformed to the skin physiology and protect the skin against the ingress of external substances and regulate the transepidermal water loss through the skin. The formation of the lamellar structures is dependent on the geometric packing factors, such as the volume of the fatty acid chains, the critical chain length, and area occupied by the head group (Israelachvili, JN In Intermolecular and Surface Forces, 2nd ed., Jovanovich, HB; Académie Press Ltd., London 1994). This means that not every amphiphilic substance can form lamellar structures or membranes. The best-known lipid capable of forming such lamellar structures is phosphatidylcholine (PC), also part of human cell mambranes. Phosphatidylcholine is found in a high concentration in soya lecithin. DE 19 857 492, EP 1 259 218 and DE 10 2006 015 544 by Kuhs GmbH describe formulations based on hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, medium-chain triglycerides, mixed with different active ingredients. However, the preparation of these formulations can not be done with conventional emulsification. To produce it requires a special high pressure homogenization, the process must also be repeated several times (Hans Lautenschläger, Österreichische Apothekerzeitung, 56 (14), 679 (2002). DE 10 2011 110 749 by Gabriele Blume describes a production process according to which preparations with a lamellar structure can be prepared by a simple emulsion technique. In this case, however, the valuable for the skin Phoppha-tidylcholine is replaced by sucrose tristearates. However, phosphatidylcholine, especially the hydrogenated one, shows a pronounced barrier-stabilizing effect. The skin barrier is stabilized by PCH-containing preparations with lamellar structure in such a way that after the application of the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) changes only slightly when external substances act on the skin. The protection thus obtained is also characterized by a high water resistance and resistance to sweat. For this reason, the use of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine is highly desirable for cosmetic or dermatological preparations. Object of this invention It was an object of this invention to develop a method by which it is possible to prepare stable cream bases for topical application using the ingredients for membrane structure creams known since 1995, in particular using hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine have a qualitatively and quantitatively better lamellar structure, than by the method used hitherto with high pressure homogenization. Description of the Invention It has now been found that o.b. Membrane Structure Preparations made with hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, medium-chain triglycerides and cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients after fermentation by microorganisms having pronounced lamellar structures. Advantages of this type of preparation over the conventional method are that can be dispensed with a complex high-pressure homogenization and that the slow fermentation quantitatively and qualitatively much more pronounced multilamellar layers arise, which is very similar to the human skin barrier and their protective functions significantly increased. By means of a so-called cryofixation and subsequent microscopic observation in the SEM, it was found that the multilamellar layers are much more pronounced than is the case with conventional high-pressure homogenization. It could be clearly shown that by fermentation with suitable microorganisms or by the action of the reaction products formed during the fermentation, a quantitatively and qualitatively much better cross-linking to multilamellar stratifications takes place (see FIG. 2) than is done by conventional high-pressure homogenization , In the high-pressure homogenization, a mixture of droplet form and lamellar stratification arises predominantly. Depending on the choice of microorganisms can be formed in addition to the skin very valuable reaction products, such as vitamins A, vitamin B1, B2, B6, B12, vitamin D, folic acid, niacin, enzymes. In the biotechnological production according to the invention, a pre-emulsion with a predominantly droplet form is first produced, which then completely changes into a multilamellar membrane structure by the addition of microcultures over a period of several days (see Appendix I, Fig. 1 (before fermentation ) and Fig. 2 (after fermentation)). It is clearly evident from an increase in viscosity of the pre-emulsion, after progressive fermentation. Viscosity course The initially liquid, milky consistency changes to a creamy consistency as the fermentation progresses, which can only be explained by the transition from a droplet form to a multilamellar structure. Initial viscosity of the emulsified mixture: 100 mPas Viscosity after 3 days maturation at 18-23 ° C: 1,200 mPas Viscosity after 4 days maturation at 18-23 ° C: 2,000 mPas Viscosity after 5 days of ripening at 18-23 ° C: 4,000 mPas By this biotechnical method of producing membrane structure preparations, they can further be declared as 100% biological or as probiotic or prebiotic preparations. Example 1 Production of a membrane structure cream by fermentation by yeast cultures: 2% phosphatidylcholine hydrogenated 25% almond oil 3% shea butter 5% glucose 65% water Example 2 Production of a membrane structure concentrate by fermentation with a mixture of lactobacteria and yeasts: 24% phosphatidylcholine hydrogenated 24% neutral oil (medium-chain triglycerides) 5% glucose 2% lactose 45% water [0012] Preparation process The components are heated to 70-80 ° C and homogenized with conventional homegenizing. After cooling the mixture to 20 ° C, the emulsion with liquid consistency about 0.5-1% of a mixture of bacterial and yeast cultures are added and the mixture stored for 3-7 days at a constant temperature of 18 ° C-23 ° C. The bioreactor is designed so that anaerobic fermentation can take place, ie under exclusion of air, and the resulting carbon dioxide can escape. The bacterial cultures consist mainly of lactobacilli of the species Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus bulgaricus, Lactobacillus brevis and Streptococcus lactis. The yeasts are especially Saccharomyces cerevisae, Candida utillis and Kluyveromyces lactis. Example 3 Production of a Day Cream by means of a Pre-Faceted Membrane Structure Concentrate: 10% MS Concentrate (MS 24 KbA) 35% Almond Oil raf.
权利要求:
Claims (15) [1] 1. A process for the preparation of preparations for topical use for cosmetic or pharmaceutical products, characterized in that a mixture of 1.) phosphatidylcholine, preferably hydrogenated 0.1-30% 2.) Vegetable oils and / or fats and / or waxes 0 , 5-50% 3.) water and / or hydrous plant extracts 10-90% 4.) mono- or polysaccharides 0.1-20% mixed, homogenized, preferably at a temperature of 40-90 ° C, then on Is cooled to 10-40 ° C and then treated with bacterial and / or Hefekulturen. [2] 2. Method and composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the mixture bacterial cultures from the family of lactobacteria are added. [3] 3. A method and composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the mixture yeast cultures from the family of saccharomyces and / or Candida utillis and / or Kluyveromyces lactis are added. [4] 4. Method and composition according to claim 1-3, characterized in that the mixture before or after the fermentation cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical agents are added. [5] 5. A method and composition according to claims 1-4, characterized in that the mixture extracts of the plant Edelweiss (Leontopodium Alpinum) are added. [6] 6. Method and composition according to claims 1-4, characterized in that the mixture extracts of the plant Pistacius lentiscus, also called mastic or mastic are added. [7] 7. The method and composition according to claims 1-4, characterized in that the mixture extracts of algae, in particular the genus Laminaria ochroleuca and / or Alaria Esculenta and / or microalgae are added. [8] 8. A method and composition according to claims 1-4, characterized in that the mixture of vegetable core oils, in particular grapeseed oil and / or cranberry oil and / or rosehip seed oil, and / or almond oil and / or argan oil are added. [9] 9. A method and composition according to claim 1-4, characterized in that the mixture hyaluronic acid or Na-hyaluronate is added. [10] 10. A method and composition according to claims 1-4, characterized in that the mixture plant extracts of aloe and / or horsetail be added. [11] 11. Method and composition according to claims 1-4, characterized in that vitamins and / or provitamins and / or enzymes and / or coenzymes and / or proteins are added to the mixture. [12] 12. The method and composition of claim 1-11, characterized in that form multilammelar layers by the fermentation or by the reaction products of the fermentation. [13] 13. The method and composition of claim 1-12, characterized in that the microorganisms are inactivated (killed) after completion of fermentation and the finished product no longer contains living germs. [14] 14. Method and composition according to claim 1-12, characterized in that the end product contains a high concentration of active bacteria and / or yeasts, which prevent colonization with pathogenic germs. [15] 15. The method and composition of claim 1-14, characterized in that first a concentrate is prepared, which is added at a later time with hydrophilic and / or lipophilic components and active ingredients and processed into a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日 WO2017063748A1|2017-04-20| CH711598B1|2017-06-15|
引用文献:
公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题 WO2019086195A1|2017-11-06|2019-05-09|Cosmetolab Ag|Process for preparing topical formulations by means of ultrasound and formulations so obtained|AT493139T|1997-04-18|2011-01-15|Ganeden Biotech Inc|SURFACE USE OF PROBIOTIC BACILLUS SPORES TO PREVENT OR PREVENT MICROBIAL INFECTIONS| DE19857492A1|1998-12-14|2000-06-15|Hans Lautenschlaeger|Cosmetic or dermatological skin-protective compositions, containing saturated phosphatidyl choline to give good barrier stabilizing and active agent penetrating effects| PT1259218E|2000-02-25|2010-07-15|Kuhs Gmbh|Cosmetic composition for the treatment of skin ageing and/or stressed skin| CH694611A5|2000-05-16|2005-04-29|Pentapharm Ag|Cosmetically active composition.| DE60136096D1|2000-12-19|2008-11-20|Yakult Honsha Kk|EXTERNAL SKIN PREPARATIONS AND METHOD FOR THEIR PRODUCTION| DE60302455T2|2002-05-17|2006-06-14|Unilever Nv|ENJOYABLE EMULSION WITH LIVING MICROORGANISMS| DE102006015544A1|2006-03-31|2007-10-04|Kuhs Gmbh|Topical composition, useful for infants or baby e.g. to reduce skin roughness, comprises hydrophilic liquid, anti-inflammatory active agent and a carrier substance with hydrophilic liquid forming lamellar double-membrane layer| WO2008046625A2|2006-10-18|2008-04-24|Dsm Ip Assets B.V.|Encapsulation of heat and moisture sensitive substances| JP2010018560A|2008-07-11|2010-01-28|Toyobo Co Ltd|Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic composition containing biosurfactant| KR100898311B1|2008-10-23|2009-05-19|주식회사 더멋진 바이오텍|Cosmetic composition containing extract of mixed fermentation with soy bean milk| DE102011110749A1|2011-08-16|2013-02-21|Gabriele Blume|Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition with lamellar structures using sucrose fatty triesters - simple and easy preparation|
法律状态:
2017-06-30| PCOW| Change of address of patent owner(s)|Free format text: NEW ADDRESS: PETER-MERIAN-STRASSE 43, 4052 BASEL (CH) | 2018-03-15| PUE| Assignment|Owner name: SWISSCOLAB AG, CH Free format text: FORMER OWNER: SWISS CREAM COSMETICS SCC GMBH, CH | 2021-05-31| PL| Patent ceased|
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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题 CH01505/15A|CH711598B1|2015-10-16|2015-10-16|Process for the preparation of dermatological and cosmetic preparations with pronounced lamellar structures using phosphatidylcholine and fermentation by microorganisms.|CH01505/15A| CH711598B1|2015-10-16|2015-10-16|Process for the preparation of dermatological and cosmetic preparations with pronounced lamellar structures using phosphatidylcholine and fermentation by microorganisms.| PCT/EP2016/001708| WO2017063748A1|2015-10-16|2016-10-14|Composition and method for producing dermatological and cosmetic preparations having pronounced lamellar structures using phosphatidycholine and fermentation by microorganisms| 相关专利
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